Tips of the South

Right at the top of New Zealand's South Island are two places I love - the Queen Charlotte Hiking / Mountain Biking Track, and Nelson including the magnificent Abel Tasman Track. 

Queen Charlotte Track

Easter was a fantastic time for our family to walk part of the Queen Charlotte Track.  The pristine, clear mountain water streams attracted British explorer Captain James Cook to the area in the late 1700s.  No doubt the serene unspoiled beauty and peace of the place captured his heart, as it did ours.

Queen Charlotte Sound from Eatwell Lookout

The amazing archipelago views you get along the track make the walk well worthwhile, and there are fantastic places to stay at different bays along the way.  We first stayed at Punga Cove resort, in a gorgeous private liitle chalet in the bush.

The track runs along a peninsula, sometimes along the waters edge, and often along the ridge of the hills.  The best thing is that Cougarline water taxi company provides a user friendly pack carrying service as part of the trip in and out of the sounds, and ferries hikers from place to place.  So you can choose to walk the sections of the track that appeal to you.  If the weather turns bad, you simply stay at your lodge and enjoy fine cuisine and activities, or ferry to the next stop.

The Author at Eatwell

The resort caters for all budgets from backpackers to luxury travellers. Our chalet had a cooktop and fridge, so we brought supplies with us on the ferry trip of about 3 hours from Wellington to Picton, and then the small hop from Picton to Punga Cove.   We were able to cook all our meals in the Chalet and dine on our little deck overlooking the sea.  We made our own packed lunches, though the resort provides an excellent packed lunch option and has two restaurants - one for gourmet diners and the other for pub style meals down at the jetty.  There is a little sandy beach which is set up like a Pacific Island resort with kayaks, table tennis and badminton and a pool and spa.

The first day we walked one of the hardest sections of the track, from Punga Cove to the Eatwell Lookout.  It started with a fairly vertical hill climb from the water to the top of the hill, then a rollercoaster of smaller hills for a couple of hours.  The track was uncrowded and clean, with a few parties of mountain bikers passing us along the way.  The views were a truly worthwhile reward, and the walk home to Punga Cove was an easier downhill jaunt.

The second day we had a much cruisier walk along the waterside to Furneaux Lodge.  Only a few hours duration (with plenty of rest stops) and peppered with lots of little bays and bridges.  We made it to the Lodge before the rain set in at lunchtime, and had a drink at Furneaux Lodge's classic old bar/brasserie before ferrying back to Punga Cove.



The beach at Lochmara Lodge

Our last stop was at Lochmara Lodge toward the far end of the track.  Lochmara is a wildlife recovery and arts centre, but don't let that distract you from the fact that it also has a stunning bath house with twin tubs overlooking the bay, wonderful massages (just ask my husband) and a restaurant to die for.  Once we had walked the sculpture trail featuring works by renowned New Zealand artists, reclined in some of the countless hammocks dotted around the resort, and had a family game of petanque, we were ready for dinner in the gorgeous waterfront restaurant.

I had been in a DIY food phase for the holiday, aimed at keeping a lid on the budget.  However there are no cooking facilities at Lochmara and - thank goodness - I had no choice but to enjoy the restaurant.  Otherwise I would have really missed out.  The food was delicious, but even better was the ambience with large fireplaces and books and games to curl up with during the day.  The cuisine is based on sustainability wherever possible, and uses mainly wild, organic or local produce.

This is a destination for all seasons, whether you are walking the track or just staying put.

Abel Tasman Track

The Abel Tasman track sticks in my mind as one of the most idyllic places I have ever been, with the most golden, warm, sandy beaches.  Situated just out of Nelson you can get there by flying to that city from one of New Zealand's main centres and taking a bus or car to Marahau.  If you are bringing a vehicle from the North Island you will need to use the Interislander or Bluebridge Ferry from Wellington to Picton and drive from there.

Typical Abel Tasman Beach

There are guided walk options available, or you can freedom walk and book accommodation through the Department of Conservation.  It is an easy walk to suit all levels of ability, along beaches and coastline.

We based ourselves at the start of the track in Marahau, and used the water taxi to ferry back each day.  We stayed the final night at the eco friendly Awaroa Lodge.  Fresh local crab and the region's delectable wines were on the menu when I visited.  The restaurant has lovely native wooden tables and stained glass windows which add to the warm and healthy atmosphere. It was really hard to leave, and I would put Awaroa Lodge right at the top of my "must visit again" list.

All material copyright to Leeanne Templer, full articles available on request.